We are off on our travels again, this time to Germany, more specifically to Wittenberg in Eastern Germany for the start of a week of point to point cycling, with the excellent Mercurio Travel and our host and tour leader, Andre. Those of you who regularly read my ramblings on here may remember we have been on one of Andre’s trips before. In 2018 we cycled Passau to Vienna and had an outstanding time. So much so, that we vowed to be back. However dates and pandemics conspired against us and this is the first opportunity we have had to enjoy our next tour.

Why the title of “The Grand Depart?” Our trip this time co-incides with the Tour de France and the start off that event is known as the Grand Depart. However, that is where the similarity ends. The Tour consists of over 170 professional riders, back up crews, a media circus, and mountains a plenty. Our “Tour” features just 8 people (keen cyclists all) plus a support van and driver, and our host/guide Andre. We followed a flat, mostly traffic free route between Wittenberg and Dresden alongside the path of the River Elbe. Theirs is a race, ours was a gentle sightseeing bimble.

The group gathered in Wittenberg a town about 90km south west of Berlin on a Sunday evening after travelling from the UK, Ireland and Australia. Wittenberg has an interesting history. It is most notably associated with the protestant reformation in the 1500’s and its chief protagonist, Martin Luther lived and worked here. Many of the historic buildings in the town that date from this period have been well preserved.

Top: Wittenburg Main Square; Bottom: Main Street -Wittenburg

Top: Courtyard restaurant – our first group dinner; Bottom: Us on the main street

The following day we were introduced to our bikes, panniers etc and and after adjustment by Andre (he is chief bike mechanic too!) embarked on our first stage, a circular route to the Worlitz Garden Realm some 15 miles away, along river-side paths. There we would enjoy a picnic lunch prepared by Andre’s assistant for the week, Sonnas.

Have bikes, will ride – Bike fitting in the hotel courtyard

Top: Leaving Wittenberg – Lyn crosses the Elbe; Bottom: The River Elbe at Wittenberg

Worlitz Garden Realm is a large garden and estate created in the late 18th century by Duke Leopold III of Anhalt-Dessau. It extends to around 35,000 hectares and is based on the landscaped parks and gardens of old England. It is now a World Heritage Site. We were treated to an unusual tour round, in a rowing boat, on the lake that forms part of the garden. Whilst the rower was gently hauling us around, we enjoyed a splendid picnic on the boat listening to his talk on the creation of the garden and park, its features, and some awful jokes.

Scenes around the lake at Worlitz

Some of the buildings that form part of the Worlitz Realm estate

Our rower – He told us he only does 5 x 1 hour trips a day as he is getting on bit! He has been doing the job for 25 years!

On the lake and by the lake – Worlitz

The strong wind that delayed us cycling on the route out, was behind us as we made our way back to Wittenberg, arriving back at our hotel only slightly behind schedule. Another splendid dinner was enjoyed by all in a local restaurant. Indeed, this was to become a theme for the week, comfortable accommodation and great restaurants.

Top: Taking a break; Centre and Bottom: On a river ferry on the way home

The next day saw temperatures increase, and the wind drop slightly as we embarked on the longest leg of the week, a 43 mile route to the town of Torgau. This would take us on a flat route, roughly following the Elbe, but for much of our ride today, the river would be out of sight but, we were assured, not far away. We took regular breaks to refresh water bottles in the heat, and enjoyed a welcome coffee and cake stop in the village of Elsten.

Top: Old Windmill on the Elbe at Elsten. Centre: Beached chain ferry……no sign of the river nearby! Bottom: Sculpture at the same place.

Top. Lyn seeks shade whilst others visit the mill. Bottom: Our outstanding guide/host/leader, Andre.

Andre’s great line in cycling gear!

Our cafe stop in Elsten. Excellent coffee and a lovely Apple Strudel. Cap’n Jack below kept an eye on things, anchored as he was, to the building

Who said men cannot multi-task? Andre fills Lyn’s water bottle whilst eating a banana.

A word about the rive Elbe. It rises in the Giant mountains of the northern Czech republic flowing through much of the western part of that country before crossing into eastern Germany and flowing into the North Sea at Cuxhaven, about 70 miles northwest of Hamburg, which means, unusually it is one of few rivers to flow south to north. It is around 680 miles in length. It is popular with large cruiser boats who normally ply their holiday trade up and down this stretch of the river. However, there is insufficient water in the river to enable the boats to come up further than Dresden at the moment. This may be good for the river wildlife but not so good for the tour companies who can’t offer these trips.

The cycle path cris-crossed fields brimming with crops, from wheat, barley and sunflowers. Yes, acres of sunflowers all with their yellow heads reaching up for the sunshine burning down on us. It was a glorious sight. Although the wind had slackened off, the heat made our ride hard work and we enjoyed frequent stops throughout the day, to rest, refill water bottles and try and cool down as best we could.

Top: Approaching another village; Centre: One of many fields of sunflowers; Bottom: Up close to a sunflower..

Our lunch stop – under a tree just outside Kluden

A lake by our lunch stop

After a lunch break at Kluden and another brief ice cream stop in Prettin we arrived in Torgau, a town on the river, about an hour later than planned.

Top: Just like Norfolk – wide open fields and big skies; Centre: Lake at Prettin – our ice cream stop mid afternoon; Bottom: Lyn and I at a periodic rest stop – late afternoon.

The Group – less two….I am behind the camera

We enjoyed a short tour of the town whilst walking out to the restaurant for our evening meal. However the proper guided tour took place the following morning before we set off on the next leg of our ride.

Above: Some images of the streets of Torgau

Torgau has its place in history on two counts. Firstly, the wife of 16th century priest Martin Luther, Katharina, died here in 1553. Martin Luther was the founder of the Reformation movement in the 16th Century and lived around Wittenburg and Torgau for most of his life.

Top: The view up the street from our room – Torgau; Centre: Us in Main Square Torgau; Bottom: Fountain in Main Square

Courtyard – Hartenfels Castle Torgau – The only rain we had all trip and it lasted 10 minutes!

Katharina Luther lived and died here

On 25 April 1945, Torgau was the location of the first meeting between troops of the American Army and the Ukraine/Russian Army, fighting to defeat the Nazi regime. They were on either side of the river in Torgau and it is a significant event which hastened the end of WW2. Five days later Hitler committed suicide, and on 7 May 1945 the German army surrendered. This monument commemorates the meeting of the two armies either side of the River Elbe.

Where Armies Meet – The memorial commemorating the meeting of the American and Ukranian/Soviet armies in WW2

Top: View from the meeting point – Americans on the left bank, Ukranians/Russians on the right. The Russian party crossed via a bridge behind our position. Bottom: Our guide holds up a newspaper from the day in 1945

Across the road from the memorial was this monument, reminding the good folk of Torgau about the “goodness” that the Soviet Union bought to the GDR before reunification.

Our route today was a more gentle 30 miles to the industrial city of Riesa. Just before lunch we cycled into the village of Belgern, where we posed for photographs under the enormous figure of a character known locally as “Roland”. The legend involved nefarious criminal activity and disputes between the people of Torgau and Belgern which involved the statue being stolen and moved from one town to the other. These disputes were settled long ago and the statue now rests proudly in one corner of Belgern’s village square. A sinister reminder of those distant days. After posing for pictures underneath Roland we were soon back on the bikes for a short ride to to our riverside picnic stop for another splendid picnic lunch.

Lyn rests during a break in cycling en route to Belgern

Left: Our group with Roland. Right: Roland on his own

Two views of the village square – Belgern

Top: View from our lunch stop; Bottom: Time for a picnic

Again, the weather was sunny and very hot. Feeling relaxed after a good lunch we heard the call from Andre once again, “prepare to cycle!” This usually prompts a quick rush around and calls of “where’s my bike” as we get ready to move off once again. This call became our theme for the week and it became a quite endearing one by the end.

Our route continued alongside the Elbe for a while and my thoughts turned to the past momentarily. It was hard to imagine that 80 years ago this land was being fought over by the German Army, the Russians and the Allied forces in WW2. It was so peaceful and so green and beautiful in its own way. No mountains but the big skies added to the vistas.

The heat meant that we had frequent water and banana stops and at one point as we rode through the village of Muhlberg we paused for a very welcome ice cream. That was a popular stop!

The ice cream shop in Muhlberg – a welcome pause on another baking hot day

One of the joys of these trips is occasionally coming across something strange yet oddly practical. Just outside an un-named village we stopped by a what can only be described as a “bike fixing post”. A bright coloured metal container with spanners, tyre levers etc, and a pump, all intended for bicycle repair.

We arrived in Riesa in late afternoon, and once again Sonnas, Andre’s assistant had done a fantastic job in delivering bags to our rooms before we arrived, even after clearing up the picnic site after we had departed. Dinner was in our hotel and was delicious.

The tale of our tour continues in part 2.

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